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Arthur's Seat & the 17 mysterious coffins


This was another foggy Saturday morning in Edinburgh a few weeks ago. One of these ones when you are at a crucial point and either you dive in the sofa with the remote control acting like a part of your own body or you choose the active, healthy way... I have heard so many things about the highest point of the city, Arthur's Seat. Myths about the legendary King Arthur's possible castle position, tales for some 17 mysterious mini coffins dated back to 1828, numerous references in Ian Rankin novels, even appearance in Mary Shelley's masterpiece, Frankenstein!

So I easily got motivated to climb the 251m (822ft) of Arthur's Seat and try to figure out what will the energy be like up there. Would I find traces of the mighty knight? Would I listen to whispers from north winds? Would I get any messages from the crows flying over its peak? And what was finally the truth behind those 17 wooden coffins?

My starting point was the parking outside the Holyrood Palace and the old Parliament building. Lots of people were climbing the green slopes of this hill trying to reach its top. You definitely need suitable shoes, a windproof jacket and water. I could assume that there were different paths to the top, some syrrounding the hill from the left, crossing small St. Margaret's Loch and the 15th century St. Anthony's chapel ruins, some others going towards the right. It was my first time so I chose the 'official way' to feel like a proper hiker. For the lazy ones, there is always the choice of using your car. You won't see the top of course, but you won't sweat either!

It took me about 40 minutes to reach the top of the inactivated volcano formed about 350 millions years ago. It actually belongs to a group of volcanos like the rock on which Edinburgh Castle is built and eroded by a huge glacier moving from west to east. I was keeping a quite quick paste but I was enjoying the workout! After all it was supposed to be my leg day at the gym!

You can stop many times for pictures as long as the view is different while the elevation changes. Some poor ladies were suffering in their uncomfortable boots and some other brave guys were struggling in their All Stars, so don't forget your trainers...

The last part was the most difficult as it has a nice and big inclination, but the view from the top was absolutely rewarding! All was there lying in front of me. The entire Edinburgh from side to side. The absolute protagonist of the skyline was the Castle, seeming quite small to me from this height , the Carlton Hill, the gothic domes who were penetrating the skies like sharp steel, the Palace and the sea from the other side as well as the lovely loch Dunsapie, rich in flora and rare birds.

I was not alone up there but I could feel the energy of this place offering this majestic 360' view of the scottish capital. I could understand why the glorious King Arthur might have chosen this place for building Camelot. Protected from invadors and surrendered only to the strong winds who blow always up here, seems like the ideal 'place to be' for a medieval superstar like him!

In one of the slopes I was overlooking now, back in 1828, some kids were hunting rabbits. (I am sure there are still some, chewing the wet grass during the nights when the place is quiet). However in a nearby cave they discovered 17 mini wooden coffins containing carved body figures. Who were they? What were they representing? Maybe witchcraft? The answer was given to me, after a little search.

They were 16 victims of 18th century's serial killers Burke and Hare who actually sold the bodies to a doctor for his spooky experiments and investigation of human anatomy. The 17th body belonged to a person who died from natural causes and was sold as well. Poor fellows, at least some local artist, relative or even priest has spent some time to carve them to eternity. You can still see those mysterious miniatures in the Edinburgh Royal Museum . Personally I would prefer to know the person who carved them...Brrrr!

After a small break for selfies and necessary meditation , I starting descending. Don't underestimate this part of the walk, because it needs attention due to slippery path and big inclination.

To be honest it was not my first mountain to climb, but this was quite a special one. All those legends and myths related to its past, made the trekking more fascinating! I will definitely return soon, when I am trying to avoid another leg day at the gym! Now, time for streching...

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